Whitewashing brick fireplaces and home interior/exterior walls have come back in style lately, obviously in response to those of us without a farmhouse or shiplap hiding behind our walls. Whitewashing a fireplace even made an appearance on an episode of Ask This Old House recently!
Classic Whitewashing Recipe
Whitewash, also referred to as limewash, is a very old finishing technique that has been used for centuries around the world. The most recognizable example are the Greek Island villages with their brilliant white exteriors. Paint will never come close to the pure white of limewash.
A basic whitewash recipe is nothing more than a solution of 20% lime suspended in a water solution. High calcium hydrated lime powder is mixed with water and allowed to sit for at least 24 hours to form a thick lime putty. (Lime putty lasts indefinitely as long as there is a layer of water covering it.) Lime putty is then mixed with water at a ratio of 1 part lime putty to 4 parts water to make whitewash. The thin whitewashing solution is then applied to damp brick with a special whitewash brush and allowed to dry for 24 hours before applying the next coat.
Classic whitewash made with only lime putty and water requires at least 3 coats to become semi-opaque with each successive coat adding more brilliance and opacity. It is very easy to apply with a limewashing brush but does take several days and planning around the movement of the sun to complete a project.
Lime + Cement Whitewash
Adding portland cement to the classic lime whitewashing recipe adds body and opacity, requiring only one coat for a semi-opaque finish and two coats for a 100% opaque whitewashed finish over dark brick. The addition of white portland cement adds opacity to the whitewash without taking away from the natural brilliance of lime while also smoothing out the texture of rough brick.
Whitewash vs Paint
Whitewash made with lime is the only way to correctly and permanently lighten brick fireplaces or walls.
Advantages of whitewash
- Odorless
- Inexpensive
- Self healing
- Easily repairable
- Lasts forever
- Durable
- Fills small cracks & holes in mortar
- Chemically bonds to brick
- Antiseptic & antifungal
- Naturally cools homes by reflecting sun’s heat
Do not paint brick
Brick is a natural product that must be allowed to breath. Paint forms a film on the outside of the brick that acts like plastic wrap, trapping moisture between the brick & your walls. Trapped moisture means you’ve created the perfect environment for mold and rot.
Once paint is applied to brick, it can not be reused in anyway, rendering it useless for recycling later. Modern paints are also terrible at holding onto porous materials, thus paint will peel no matter what. From my experience, it starts to peel in 5-10 years. Once you paint brick, it can not be whitewashed properly so do it right the first time and brighten brick with limewash, not paint.
I’ve wanted to lighten up my workshop/garage for a long time since it only gets sun late in the afternoon and use it as my photo studio to shoot all my products. I’ve made do with my moveable shiplap walls but I still had to deal with bricks giving off a red tone in my photos.
I knew I didn’t want to whitewash with latex paint because it was guaranteed to eventually peel and the German smear technique looked like it was such an expensive, messy technique.
I was not planning on doing this project until I saw a whitewash recipe shared on Facebook that used lime and Portland cement. Even better, it was the whitewash recipe A. Hays Town used in his homes. I couldn’t believe my luck!
Whitewashing brick has been popular in Baton Rouge since the 1960s when A. Hays Town utilized it in his iconic homes. It has also been popular around the world, especially England, for centuries for good reason!
I have to give a big thank you to Al Jones, a local architect who worked under Mr. Town, for providing his whitewashing recipe, answering my questions, and directing me to local suppliers. He gave me the insight I needed to develop my own original technique and recipe.
Whitewashing Supplies
How to Whitewash Brick with Lime & White Portland Cement
My brick whitewashing recipe and technique will allow some color to come through after one coat and will be opaque bright white after two coats. It can also be used on other porous surfaces such as stucco or cement.
IMPORTANT: You must use High Calcium Hydrated Lime.
All Hydrated Limes are not created equal and most big box/hardware store employees do not understand the very important differences. If it labeled for garden or agricultural use, it can not be used for whitewashing brick.
By definition, High Calcium Lime means that over 95% of the original limestone was Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) with only up to 5% impurities.1
Hydrated Lime Type S can be used if that’s all you can find but the dry time and final color will depend on the magnesium content and every company’s formula differs.
For small projects like whitewashing brick fireplaces, pickling lime can be purchased in 1 lb bags.
For a deep dive into the different types of hydrated limes and available brands, read about them here.
Be sure to read all the way to the bottom for important safety & disposal information.
- Make Lime Putty
Fill large 5 gallon bucket halfway with hydrated lime powder then slowly stir in clean, cool water until saturated. Keep filling with lime & water until nearly full, making sure to leave a few inches for water on top. Seal with lid.
Let sit at least 24 hours.
Though not required, making lime putty by adding water to hydrated lime powder the day before not only makes for a safer work environment but will also give you a smoother whitewash finish. Lime putty will last indefinitely as long as it is covered with water in a sealed container. - Clean
Clean brick walls or fireplace surround well to remove dirt and dust with power washer, vacuum, or my favorite cleaner; Scott’s Oxi Outdoor Cleaner. Bricks need to be as clean as possible since the whitewash will adhere to the brick through carbonation. *science*
- Make Whitewash {start with small amount at first}
2 parts lime putty : 2 parts water : 1 part white portland cement
Drain off water from lime putty so you can scoop out the thick, shortening-like lime putty from the bottom of the bucket. Whisk 2 cups lime putty with 2 cups cool water until smooth. Whisk in 1 cup white portland cement. I like using 16 oz wide mouth mason jars for the lime putty/water & a 8 oz mason jar for the portland cement to keep things consistent and organized.
If using Hydrated Lime Type S:
In medium sized bucket, whisk 1 cup white Portland cement: 1 cup hydrated lime together. - Add Water
Add enough cool water until it is the consistency of heavy cream.
Thin coats are better than thick coats as well as easier to apply. - Strain Mix
For the smoothest application, strain the whitewash mix with a fine mesh strainer. This will remove a surprisingly large clump of lime and cement bits that are much easier to remove after mixing with water.
- Spray down area
Wet area with a garden hose or garden pump sprayer until fully saturated to even out moisture levels between bricks and mortar in the wall/fireplace/etc.
Older bricks tend to suck up a lot of water and need to be sprayed down more often while newly laid bricks will stay moist longer. - Mist small section
Starting at the top, mist a 3’x3′ section until moist but not sopping wet.
If your hand is wet after touching the brick, wait a few seconds for the excess water to evaporate. - Stir then load brush
Using your large brush, stir the lime and cement whitewashing solution to resuspend particles and load the brush with whitewash.
Start off with a completely dry lime washing brush. A damp or wet brush gets very heavy and messy as soon as you load it. Having 2 brushes (one in use, one drying) on hand is best. - Apply first coat
Cover every nook and cranny of mortar and brick with the lime whitewash. It should feel slick and a bit wild applying the whitewash in fast swipes of the brush.
If your brush feels like it’s dragging or you are having to go over the same spot over and over, the brick may need to be remisted or your whitewash mix is too thick.
Avoid too much build up as it tends to crack as it dries. - Mist, Paint, Repeat
Move onto the next section and apply whitewash in the same fashion by misting the bricks, letting them dry out a bit, slap on whitewash, repeat until the area is covered.
The lime and Portland cement whitewash will look transparent at first but turns more opaque and bright white as it dries. - Let dry for at least 24 hours
Let dry completely before applying a second coat of whitewash.
This can take anywhere from overnight to a few days depending on the dew point, ambient temperature, wind speed, etc. - Apply second coat
The second coat goes on exactly like the first one
Mist wall -> Slap on whitewash -> Move to next section
A second coat is not required but it will completely cover the brick’s color and give you a brilliant white.
Heads up!
When you mist the first coat of whitewash, it’s going to look like you royally messed it up. The whitewash will look like it has cracks everywhere. This just means it was applied & dried properly.
See tips below if you don’t see this crackling.
Whitewashing Brick Tips
– Lime whitewash is best applied when temps are between 60-80 degrees fahrenheit in shade.
– DO NOT FORCE DRY WITH FANS. Lime and Portland cement bind best when they dry slowly. Just remember, whitewash lasts forever so don’t rush it. If whitewash is drying too fast, (less than 24 hours) mist with water to allow adhesion. Repeat until you start to see fine cracks appearing when you first mist the whitewash. This means carbonation is happening and you are ready for the next coat.
– Starting at the top of the wall and working down in sections works best.
– The first coat is very slow and tedious process, especially if you have irregular brick like mine. It takes me 3 hours to whitewash a 10’x10′ brick wall. The second coat is much faster.
For more in-depth troubleshooting and info about whitewashing brick
Important Safety Information
- Hydrated lime is not the same as garden lime. You can find it with the cement or at your local Ace store.
- When working with hydrated lime, it is imperative you wear a dust mask, safety glasses, and gloves. Lime burns are no joke.
- No matter how careful you are, you will have splatter. Cover anything you want to keep clean.
- Clean up spills as soon as they happen. Once it dries, it’s not coming off. I’ve tried.
- Materials are cheap. Invest in a good lime washing brush. No, a masonry brush will not work. Trust me, I spent 8 hours cursing a bad brush.
Resources for research nerds like me
1. Carmeuse High Calcium (N) Normal Hydrated Lime
2. Durability of Traditional and Modified Limewashes (2007-18) by Sarah Jackson at NCPTT
3. Limewash: Compatible Coverings for Masonry and Stucco by Peter Mold & Richard Godbey
4. Documentation and Testing of Nineteenth-Century Limewash Recipes in the United States by Sloane Taliaferro
Steve Pulling says
What is the working time once you make the whitewash mix? How thick should the putty mix be?
Genevieve says
Working time will depend on the weather but for reference, I was able to work with 6 cups of whitewash mix for 1.5 hours in 90 degree weather before it became too thick to work with. I usually start with a fairly watery mix on hot days and only work in the shade. Starting with cold water helps too.
The putty mix will be similar in texture to joint compound. I pull the lime putty from the bottom of the bucket for the thickest consistency.
Be sure to strain the white wash mix through an old fine mesh strainer for the smoothest application. I learned that the hard way last weekend.
Marissa P says
Were you able to find the Hydrated Lime locally in your area? I’m in Lafayette, LA and I cannot find this product ANYWHERE close to me!
Genevieve says
Yes! I buy my hydrated lime from my local Ace Hardware but I have to buy the white portland cement from Home Depot.
I was able to track some hydrated lime down locally for you! HD Supply on Cameron St. has it in stock and they are open to the public.
Be sure to purchase a large container to store it in because 50 lbs of hydrated lime will last years if you keep it away from moisture and air. I store mine in a 31 gallon galvanized trash can with lid lined with a trash bag.
Edit March 8, 2021: HD Supply has changed their name to White Cap if anyone else is looking for it locally.
Marissa P says
OMG you are an ANGEL!!! Thank you so much. I’m starting this project this weekend 🙂
I saw another post where someone mixed their hydrated lime mixture with salt. Do you think that’s necessary? I was truly puzzled as to WHY they used salt, but figured you may know?
Genevieve says
LOL Everyone in Louisiana is making big outdoor plans this weekend with the cold front coming in. I know I could not be more happy! Finally, a weekend I don’t have to change clothes at lunchtime! I’m planning on finishing up my driveway whitewashing project I started in May. You would not believe the number of people who have stopped me to ask what I was doing!
Be sure to get the hydrated lime asap and make the lime putty before this weekend. It makes things go a lot smoother.
Salt is totally unnecessary and harmful if added. We all know what salt does to homes & boats on the coast. I’ve seen several whitewashing recipes with salt and from what I can tell, they are old recipes where people thought the salt acted as a disinfectant. It’s really disappointing people are posting these recipes without doing the research because they are setting up readers for a lot of trouble down the line.
Marissa P says
ohhh I’m super interested to see your driveway project when it’s all finished!! I’m going to be soaking up these fall temps FOR SURE!
Marissa P says
Check out our finished (ish) phase 1. https://www.instagram.com/p/B3lJkRdhr-V/?igshid=atna1u2s86yl
Brian Mackey says
Is it possible to apply this mix with an airless sprayer?
Genevieve says
Unfortunately, no. Even without the portland cement, lime clogs up the tip. I really wish there was a faster way because I’ve tried them all. A good brush is the only way so don’t skimp on cheap brushes. It makes a huge difference in the final finish & ease of application.
Chelsea says
This post is the most detailed and helpful one I have found as I am preparing to lime wash my house. Thank you for taking the time to break it all down! I know this was posted a while ago, so I am hoping you’re still able to answer questions…
1. About how much surface did you cover/how many bags of lime and cement did you use? I am needing to order my supplies online and am not sure how much to purchase.
2. do you have a brush recommendation? What makes a “good brush” in your opinion?
Thanks in advance. I’m excited to start this project!
Genevieve says
Start off with 50 lbs bags each. They both go a long way.
I have 2 recommended brushes in the post. Each give a slightly different finish. There is also a liming wash brush at Home Depot I saw recently. It looks pretty nice but I’ve never worked with it.
Lynn Michelli says
Do you have someone who does this process for an entire 2 story home in MetaIrie, Louisiana
Genevieve says
I do not know of anyone doing this professionally but maybe see if a local brick mason will.
Francis says
I would like to do this but with more of the brick color showing. I would like to lighten the color of the brick and mortar while letting more color show through. So you have any suggestions?
Genevieve says
What you would do is apply the limewash as directed then go back with a damp sponge/rag and wipe away the limewash before it cures. I like to use those large grout sponges as they are quite durable and hold a lot of water. I’ve also used a large, thick paint brush to burnish and smooth whitewash when I wanted a more worn in look.
I’ve gone back 8 hours later on a shady wall during cool weather to use this technique but if it’s hot out, I would have someone help so you can wipe the whitewash away before it dries.
There is also a technique where you apply the whitewash then hose it off before it cures. I am not a fan of this technique as portland cement and lime are potentially going into sewer systems or waterways and it leaves quite a mess. It’s also hard to get a good consistent look as you are spraying off sections that have cured for longer vs shorter periods of time.
kc says
Great tips. Any thoughts on a reduced ratio of 1 part whiTE portland : 2 parts Hydrated lime?
The higher portland content in a 1:1 mix seems like it would be maybe too “permanent”.
Genevieve says
You can do 1:2 but it will take more coats to get it opaque. You can do 100% hydrated lime but it takes something like 10 coats to get any kind of coverage. It’s too dang hot in South Louisiana for that nonsense.
My ratio has proven to be quite flexible as our home moves a good bit & we haven’t had any cracking issues.
Grace says
As far as temperature for applying the lime wash, does it matter if the temp drops lower than 60-80 the night after applying the wash?
Also, I accidentally made my lime putty too watery, it is the consist of heavy whipping cream. Will it work just as well to add the cement and just less water? And since it is watery, may 2 parts lime and 1 part cement?
Genevieve says
The night time temps definitely should not reach freezing before the wash fully cures but lower than 60 degrees Fahrenheit can mess with the curing. 55 degrees, meh. 40 degrees…that’s iffy.
If your lime putty is too watery, you can rebalance the mix by adding less water, or even not adding water if the lime + cement consistency is thin enough already. Just be sure when you are messing with the lime putty that you fully mix your bucket from the bottom. The solids like to sink to the bottom of the bucket so the bottom is super thick putty while the top is thin.
Grace says
Thanks for all the information! You are so very helpful. How long does it take for the wash to fully cure? Wondering how long to watch the temperatures.
I’m so excited to see how it turns out!
Genevieve says
The full cure usually takes 48-72 hours depending on the age of your bricks, humidity, & thickness of your coating.
Depending on your location, Tuesday after the cold front hits south Louisiana would be the perfect time. Hmmmm….I might just finish up our North walls while the weather is nice. High 70s, lows upper 50s. Perfection.
Lakan says
Thank you for taking the time to share all of the information with everyone! I have found this so helpful! I am in the planning stages of whitewashing our small home we have been renovating. My question is, about how many bags/lbs of both should I purchase for 1,000 sq ft home? It’s not big by any means! I don’t want to over buy/over spend.
Thanks in advance!
Genevieve says
I would get 50 lb bags of each.
Ali says
Hello
Can I apply this to a concrete porous block wall? Those pink blocks.
I was only able to find type S lime at Home Depot
Unable to find white Portland cement in stock. Can I just use the lime since the blocks are already concrete. Or is it necessary.
Also should I add sand like I’ve seen on some sites?
Genevieve says
So sorry for this very late reply! My email blocked notifications for some reason and I always answer questions as soon as I get them since y’all are usually in the middle of a project.
Yes, you can lime wash any porous material like cement blocks, brick, plaster, concrete, pavers, etc. I lime washed the cement blocks I used to build a rain barrel platform several years ago and it still looks great. Just be aware that the pink will show through when it gets wet but this will resolve after it dries out again or you can keep adding more coats if it bothers you.
You do not have to use white portland as well. The white portland is more for getting away with less coats and smoothing the surface texture out like many layers of 100% lime wash will. The portland cement smoothes in one coat while lime wash will take at least 3. You can absolutely use 100% lime putty + water only. That’s the traditional lime wash. White portland cement also gives the lime wash a warmer tint vs pure lime wash is a the whitest of whites.
For color context a wash made with white portland cement + lime = White Dove by Benjamin Moore
100% lime wash = High Reflective White by Sherwin Williams
Sand is unnecessary. Sand + lime + cement is stucco.
I will say this about adding sand to lime wash and cement, it is excellent for resurfacing sidewalks and driveways. I experimented with a few recipes and the sections where I applied 1/8″ fine sand, white cement, and lime putty still look amazing after 3 years. We pressure washed it a few weeks ago and it only comes off using the most narrow stream at the highest pressure. It’s stuck on there good. Lime wash and cement wore off horizontal surfaces in a year, which was okay with me because the white pavement created a horrible glare. It was pretty from afar (neighbors loved it) but it hurt your eyes to walk on it. I advise using regular grey portland cement instead when resurfacing sidewalks, porches, patios, and driveways.
Jeff Ratashak says
I have a customer what wants to essentially soften the edges of the brick, which would lead to a fairly thick coating, maybe just short of between 1/16″ and 1/8″. Do you see any issues with this thick of a coating? Does it need to be done in multiple coats? Any idea on coverage at this thickness? I am looking at probably 2000ft2 on the front of this house.
Genevieve says
So how I softened my edges is I applied a coat, let it set up, then went over it with a damp sponge to soften the edges. You’ll get 1/16″ in a single coat easily. The more coats, the softer it will get & the first coat takes forever. Each subsequent coat goes faster.
I have extremely recessed mortar & sharp brick so I slapped on at least a 1/4″ of wash to even & smooth things out. Just make sure to keep it misted & damp for a loooong cure.
Coverage will depend on your mix, age of brick, & humidity/temp. Older brick soaks up a lot of the wash since it’s more dry. New brick should be allowed to cure at least 30 days but I’d be more comfortable with a longer cure. You need carbonation to occur through a slow dry time & some new brick just doesn’t allow a good chemical reaction bc they are still too wet.
Eric Edwards says
I bought bags of White Portland and it already has lime added in. Do you think this will work for whitewashing brick?
Genevieve says
Does it state the amount of lime by percentage or weight?
Johnny says
Hi! We lime washed the front of our house but didn’t mix cement like yours. It’s cured for at least a week. The results were amazing and made our house look really good. However, it rained and now the lime washed brick looks translucent. It hasn’t stopped raining but do you know if the whiteness will come back after the rain or will be have to repaint it?
Genevieve says
Yes! Once it dries it will go back to being opaque white. The white portland cement adds opacity so this doesn’t happen as dramatically as a 100% lime wash. The more coats of lime added, the more brilliant white & less opaque it will turn.
It’s too hot & miserable in south Louisiana to keep doing lime washes so that’s why 2 coats of cement + lime is my go to.
Areté Yuvaika says
Hello, Im.excited and eager to start my limewash project on my exterior brick.
Can it be applied with a handheld pump sprayer?
Genevieve says
I was just thinking about this as I’m on day 2 of a 3 day job & it would be soooo much easier if it could be sprayed.
Unfortunately, this is not sprayable. The lime grains are too large & clog pumps. I’ve seen sprayable lime products advertised recently for ag but I imagine it’s expensive as the lime has to be incredibly fine. Lime also settles very quickly so you’d have to be constantly agitating the solution to keep the lime suspended in the water.
Chelsea says
Looking to do this to our ranch home this spring. Any idea how far this will go? Trying to figure out how much I will need to purchase of the supplies.
Genevieve says
50 lb bags of each can easily do an entire house.
Jessica says
Is the high calcium lime the same as type S?
Genevieve says
Unfortunately, no. There is a mass of confusion because in the US we have different grades of Lime vs the rest of the world. I just went through this myself. You need Type N. Type N has to be soaked in water for at least 24 hours & is pure white because of the high calcium content. Type S can be used but it is not pure white because it can contain a certain percentage of magnesium, which is not my first choice.
Ag lime or hydrated lime for gardens can never be used.
Sarah says
Hi, once this is dry, does it feel chalky? Will it rub off on fingers and clothing? Or is it smooth like paint? We have a poured concrete house from 1907. I’m using trial and error to whitewash the INSIDE walls. I was going with white portland, and water with a dash of bonder. I am wondering if the addition of lime putty to my paint mixture would be useful! What do you think?
Genevieve says
It will not chalk as long as you apply it correctly & let it dry slowly. The addition of concrete bonder does not help, and from my own experimentation, it hindered adhesion. The lime adds flexibility to the cement along with pure white color.
I think my recipe will work beautifully!
Sarah says
Ok, chalking is my main concern. The walls had calcamine paint before and it was so messy– lots of work to scrape and wash it all off. Our goal now is to seal any smallish cracks, fill pitting, and give it a cohesive look. Portland modified limewash seems to check off all the boxes. Cheaper to buy 50lb bags of masonry supply than gallons and gallons of special paint that won’t breathe and eventually fails! Next year, (hopefully) we’d like to have walls veneer plastered, the old skool way. It is expensive though, and I don’t want to wait two yrs for presentable walls. Whitewash DIY to the rescue! I suspect that a few of the rooms were whitewashed historically, which lead to total adhesion failure when previous owners tried to paint…seems like veneer plaster will coat whitewash just fine. Both are lime-based. If i want to do a small test area, with just a little bag of pickling lime, do i make it into a small batch of lime putty the day before?
Genevieve says
I’d make the lime putty as soon as you buy it. I made mine in a large 1/2 gallon mason jar. It takes a few days to fully settle to the bottom & the glass makes it easy to see when the top water turns clear. Just pour the water off, scoop out the putty, then add more water to cover. It’ll stay good forever.
Sarah says
That’s fabulous. Thank you for passing on your knowledge in a clear concise way. I love the old methods and simple ingredients. We’ve tried to take that approach as much as we can with our historical restoration. Most of the problems and failures we’ve encountered have been related to new materials added in the 70s: rotting drywall, peeling latex paint, ugly dropped ceilings. (In contrast, the plaster and lathe from 1907 is still sound and hard as a rock, and original double-hung windows function perfectly after restoration). I think your limewash might be the solution for exterior someday, too!
Ashley says
If you are using a Type S and White Portland Cement mix, do you still need to mix the day before and make a putty? I jumped into my own project before doing a lot of research, and sadly trusted the employees at Lowes to guide me to hydrated lime, which they said was the only type they carried, and happened to be garden lime. I was assured there was no difference, then did a large patch to see if I liked it, fell in love, and went to add more and it all washed off. I was so heart broken! So I am getting ready to go to a different store and buy more supplies!
Genevieve says
Oh no! Never trust big box employees!!!
Type S does not need to be soaked overnight. Type N requires soaking.
Nancy says
Hello! I’m heading from Kansas City to help my son lime wash is his home! I don’t have time to order the products and have them shipped to us so I was wondering if you have a picture or link to the lime you purchased from ace and cement from hime depot so I can make sure I’m purchasing correct items!
Thanks so much!!!
Neel says
Can I try this on concrete steps? Also, can I add some latex paint to make it blue?
Genevieve says
I wouldn’t unless you want to redo it yearly. I experimented on my own sidewalk and it only looked good for a little while.
Latex paint is a no go. To change the color, you need to add pigments that aren’t changed by lime. Look at Earth Pigments online for best colorant advice.
Ronee says
Hello! I was searching for the products to whitewash my house and came across this product70 lb. Type N Masonry Portland-Lime Blend, can this be used ?
Genevieve says
Is it white? I’ve only seen this blend in grey.
Ronee says
You are right it is grey, also are the links to the products the ones you used? The link to the brushes is no longer valid so I am confused you say don’t use a masonry brush but when I put in whitewash brush it pulls up masonry brushes. I am having to piece everything together because it appears that none of my HD in Pensacola, FL have any of the products unless I am over looking it.
Genevieve says
Yes, I only link to products I’ve actually used.
The linked brush is not a masonry brush but rather a staining brush. Masonry brushes are too coarse for limewashing and are used to brush mortar off bricks after they have been installed. You have to use a fine bristled brush to apply limewash as it grabs onto the lime in suspension. Think of it just like paint. You would never apply paint with a masonry brush.
Here’s the link again: Whitewashing Brush
You can always go ahead and use a masonry brush, but you will hate yourself. Uneducated sellers that don’t actually limewash themselves use SEO to sell you their brushes. You are allowed to hate them.
Be sure to watch the linked video from NPS on limewashing to see the brushes they use. They use true “limewashing brushes” but they are expensive and hard to find locally while deck staining brushes work just as well and widely available.
This is the link to the hydrated lime that has to be ordered as it has become impossible to find in stores since 2020.
Hydrated Lime 40 lbs
Rosa Claridge says
Hi, my house is part weatherboards, part orange brick. I’ll be painting the weatherboards a soft mid grey and want the bricks to match or complement them. Should I use the normal grey cement or what pigment would you recommend. Thanks.
Rosa
Ricky F says
We are building now in BR in UC. We have an interior wall and adjacent traditional brick column ends with a large beam and brick above it that we want to have lime washed. Can you recommend someone or even take on this project yourself for us?
Genevieve says
I would contact Al Jones of Al Jones Architects to see who he uses. I’m currently unavailable to take on more clients.
I do have aged lime putty available if you would like to do it yourself.
Molly says
Thank you so much for all of this information – I’m preparing to limewash our outdoor cement wall and couldn’t ask for a more detailed tutorial. I would also like to limewash the side of my stucco house but it has paint (I assume latex paint) on it. Do you know if I can apply the limewash on it without doing anything to it? Or do I need to strip the paint off? Or is there a primer I can apply over the paint and then apply the limewash? I appreciate any tips you can send my way! Thanks again.
Genevieve says
Unfortunately, once paint is used there’s nothing you can do. The pores have been closed up by the paint so the lime has nothing to hold on to and carbonate.
Check to be sure by rubbing alcohol on the stuccoed wall. If the color transfers, you’ve got latex paint.